Thursday, May 13, 2010
Tuesday, May 4, 2010
open minded
Heydon Bunting Sequence: From Seaworthy from Nathan Oldfield on Vimeo.
tip of the hat to surfmatters.blogspot.com
Tuesday, April 13, 2010
The Lime Treatment
You know, this is one of the few surf videos I've seen in a while that I would call cinematic. Also the first I've encountered that looks deep into the tremendous monster lip of Teahupo'o - from the inside. Would George Greenough have dared to go deeper?
Lime juice and the sea! from allan wilson on Vimeo.
Sunday, April 4, 2010
Thursday, April 1, 2010
Too Much Rocker
It's been so long I'm starting to have dreams.
My dream last night opened with me lined up on a big wall, double overhead, breaking brilliantly and it looked like I was about to pull the biggest barrel of my life. But somehow I had to decide on the spot which board I was going to ride and decided on my 6'4 thruster with the rocker.
But instead of a board materializing under my feet, I received a banana. The rocker on the banana was a bit too much though, and I quickly had to ditch the fruit and ride on the soles of my feet. I was a little more stable but lost too much speed. I saw the wave starting to break and I had no choice but to dive for the bottom of the wave in hopes of escaping a savage beating. In slow motion, I drew closer and closer to the water's surface and there the dream ended.
My dream last night opened with me lined up on a big wall, double overhead, breaking brilliantly and it looked like I was about to pull the biggest barrel of my life. But somehow I had to decide on the spot which board I was going to ride and decided on my 6'4 thruster with the rocker.
But instead of a board materializing under my feet, I received a banana. The rocker on the banana was a bit too much though, and I quickly had to ditch the fruit and ride on the soles of my feet. I was a little more stable but lost too much speed. I saw the wave starting to break and I had no choice but to dive for the bottom of the wave in hopes of escaping a savage beating. In slow motion, I drew closer and closer to the water's surface and there the dream ended.
Wednesday, March 17, 2010
Surfing is not counter culture
I would like to take this opportunity to disabuse myself of the myth of counter culture. I am an escapist, by nature and by vocation. Drugsalchoholmusicsexartcrimevandalism, all illusion in the sense that the act of transcendence requires a destination, a place to touch down. Without that it’s just getting high. Counter culture exists only in time not in space. It’s a fantasy for people who don’t really want to leave. For people who are not really serious about escape. It’s like forming a gang in prison as a form of empowerment. The real thing to do is just leave, if and when possible.
I want to leave and the place I want to go is surfing. Where is that? People spend lifetimes trying to riddle that one. So I have no answers but I do know it’s f-king hard to read in the dark. I don’t need surfing to be in the shadows, to be our secret. Just like any of the other afformentioned disciplines, music and art etc…The secret is in the mysterious yet obvious nature of truth.
Counter culture is for people who don’t want to take a real look for themselves. I’m not buyin’ it, stop sellin’ it.
I want to leave and the place I want to go is surfing. Where is that? People spend lifetimes trying to riddle that one. So I have no answers but I do know it’s f-king hard to read in the dark. I don’t need surfing to be in the shadows, to be our secret. Just like any of the other afformentioned disciplines, music and art etc…The secret is in the mysterious yet obvious nature of truth.
Counter culture is for people who don’t want to take a real look for themselves. I’m not buyin’ it, stop sellin’ it.
Thursday, March 4, 2010
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