8/31/12 Just finished. Sort of a Lightning-Bolt inspired single fin with a retro pintail and modern nose.
Wednesday 9/5/12, waxing up for first ride. First wave was a set wave. Accelerated nice on the drop, bottom turned, and turned quick off the top again. And it's fast. Very, very fast. Holy cow, I think I have a surfboard.
Sunday 9/9/12 with Albert, Jacob, and Aaron. Not hollow, but well overhead, some fast walls, and long rides. So much power to the waves, and the board seemed to eat it up. It likes to get in late, which is a bit hair raising, but made up for it with the sharp rails, which held on to some really steep walls. I got pitched off the lip a bunch though, which makes me wonder if a little more volume and less rocker in the nose might help.
Monday 9/10/12. At dusk, the surf was breaking really fast. I made an an overhead set wave, stalled, and waited to get pummeled. Instead, I heard a sound like I was in a blender and a second later the curtain pitched over my head. Then I was inside for a few moments where it was so dark I could hardly see, before my board seemed to vanish beneath me and I felt myself being transported through an air pocket for several long seconds. I had never been barreled before. I can hardly believe this happened riding a single fin made with my own hands.
I have to give huge props to Bradach for pulling together the
Rockaway Beach Surf Club, J Scott K and Jeremy for inviting me to join the Shapers Coop, and everyone else who was so supportive and encouraging. Major thanks to Scott and the guys at
Greenlight for helpful pointers and Edgar from Nature's Shapes who taught me how to make those fantastic knifey rails. I'm planning to do more as time permits.
