Cold Water and Watch the Ape Eat

Yesterday the reports had it looking like 3-4' and mushy so I left behind the shortboard I've been riding all summer and dragged the 7'8 funboard to the A train. Probably closing out but missed the taste of salt in my mouth.

Anyway, I show up, the s**t is peeling like a banana across the box. My heart leaps. I jump in the rip and paddle out, it's actually more like 5' faces and breaking across at the perfect speed. The first set I paddle into a late takeoff and totally pearl, eating it. OK, big guy, you lost the rocker with the bigger board, now put in another quarter and try again.

Take the next one at the proper angle and it's on...from the piling to the jetty. Can't remember the last time I had rides so long I was running back up the beach to put in again. It's like this for 2 solid hours until I can't paddle any more.

Why was it breaking so righteously when there were so many days filled with closeouts lately? Wonder if it had something to do with the little bit of east in the offshores. Anyone care to submit their pet theories?

Something about a cold water session gets me wanting cold water fish. Hit the Korean fish store on the way home and for the price of a deli sandwich I've got something way better.

Today ain't Hawaii and this ain't poke but know what? I'll take a double helping of today any day.

Hollow at Beach 90 today

Special thanks to Justin for providing the camera!

happy halloween!

enjoy the small stuff.

East Coast...and then Malibu

Scored two days in a row this Sunday and Monday. First day was 5' and fast, but lots of sneaky closeouts.

I sometimes get in this pattern of initially paddling out and getting a string of nice rides, then it quickly turns to shite and I start surfing like the town drunk. I almost quit after this happened on Mon but turned it around with a nice one from the jetty all the way to the beach. That fixed the stoke all right.

So much that when a larger, perfect peeler showed up, I gave it to the other cat, a stranger that I was trading waves with. He took it all the way in to the sand, then turned to look back at me. A grateful hand went up over his head before he headed up to the boardwalk and out. Brother, when there's enough waves to go around, it's all good.

Which brings me to this video, which blows my mind:



No rules of the road, way too many bodies in the water. Beach 90 at Rock is like the wilderness compared to it. But why does it still look so fun?

The style of these cats works for me...smooth, in a dance with the wave. The absolute best is the very end of the video, that last ride is something to see!

The stiffness of skill

Im starting to notice something...I am a hater. Well I didn’t just notice that I’ve been aware of my douchebaggery for a minute now. So yeah I sometimes spite the next guy for being better than me in the water. But what I’m noticing is that the intentionality of peoples surfing affects my perceptions. I think I tend to resent those who use elaborate moves to master the wave, its very punctuated and the rides tend to look like –insert maneuver here-. Yet there are others who seem to be getting loose when they bust out and I become downright inspired. I guess it comes down to attitude and style, or maybe haircuts.....

Board Lust

The other day I was scanning the interweb for surfboards. I'm looking for a new board and a shaper that is environmentally aware. While browsing Board Riders Review I found an interview with Solid Surfdoards Dan O'Hara and I really liked what I saw. Check out the interview here.

Below is their 5'9 Discus board made with recycled EPS foam strips stringerless blank, bamboo cloth, hand-foiled bamboo fins, a Bio-Plastic leash plug, and epoxy resins.


I would be more than happy to ride a recycled board with replenishable materials, such as bamboo. Check out the Solid Surfboards website for more info and more boards. Be sure to check out the shaping videos. Being on the East coast and riding mostly small waves, I thought the boards pictured below would be cool to have in any quiver. I'm looking forward to ordering one this spring!

Solid Surfboards: F-Bomb, shortboard fish hybrid.

Solid Surfboards: DisFish, discus fish hybrid

Solid Surfboards: The Kwad, shortboard fish hybrid.