I would like to take this opportunity to disabuse myself of the myth of counter culture. I am an escapist, by nature and by vocation. Drugsalchoholmusicsexartcrimevandalism, all illusion in the sense that the act of transcendence requires a destination, a place to touch down. Without that it’s just getting high. Counter culture exists only in time not in space. It’s a fantasy for people who don’t really want to leave. For people who are not really serious about escape. It’s like forming a gang in prison as a form of empowerment. The real thing to do is just leave, if and when possible.
I want to leave and the place I want to go is surfing. Where is that? People spend lifetimes trying to riddle that one. So I have no answers but I do know it’s f-king hard to read in the dark. I don’t need surfing to be in the shadows, to be our secret. Just like any of the other afformentioned disciplines, music and art etc…The secret is in the mysterious yet obvious nature of truth.
Counter culture is for people who don’t want to take a real look for themselves. I’m not buyin’ it, stop sellin’ it.
Wednesday, March 17, 2010
Thursday, March 4, 2010
Tuesday, December 22, 2009
The gallery of surfing
In following competitive surfing both at the CT and QS level I have noticed that marketing developement of an individual surfer can and does have an effect on how that person is scored in events. At first I viewed this as an unpleasant fact of life. It did not seem fair. Why should one person who is more heavily sponsored and promoted have an edge over his or her fellow competitor. It seemed unethical. But as I myself spend more time seeking out video parts on the net for surfers who are mentioned in articles and other media that function as cogs in the promotion machine I realized that the situation is a bit more complex than it looks at first gloss.
The judgement of a surf contest can seem quite arbitrary. Each surfer is stringing together moves in an effort to paint a line. At the end of the day it is about the preference of the judge as to what aestetic they think is more valuable. But in all fairness some lines are harder to understand than others.
Take art for example. Abstraction can look ugly at first glance. And personally I believe it is the perrogative of the viewer to dismiss what he or she chooses. But if the onlooker has a bit of education on the subject it may further ones ability to appreciate what at first glance is not immediately apparent.
So when a surfer is being promoted through publicity and the use of video sections yes on the one hand its just plain and simple spot lighting but on the other hand it can help judges enhance there sensibilities, advancing the mechanics of scoring by fostering a more complex understanding of the art they are viewing so to speak.
The judgement of a surf contest can seem quite arbitrary. Each surfer is stringing together moves in an effort to paint a line. At the end of the day it is about the preference of the judge as to what aestetic they think is more valuable. But in all fairness some lines are harder to understand than others.
Take art for example. Abstraction can look ugly at first glance. And personally I believe it is the perrogative of the viewer to dismiss what he or she chooses. But if the onlooker has a bit of education on the subject it may further ones ability to appreciate what at first glance is not immediately apparent.
So when a surfer is being promoted through publicity and the use of video sections yes on the one hand its just plain and simple spot lighting but on the other hand it can help judges enhance there sensibilities, advancing the mechanics of scoring by fostering a more complex understanding of the art they are viewing so to speak.
Sunday, December 20, 2009
Shifty mind
Riding the subway to work one day I saw a woman who was riding the express 5 train all the way uptown without leaning on or holding something for balance. It reminded of an old teacher I had. It also made me think of the difference between reef break and beach break. In particular the shifty sand bars most of us surf here.
A reef break is a study of experience over time as articulated through a breaking wave. So as different swell directions run through one learns about its behaviour. Where it bowls, what are the lines that can be drawn and this becomes the discipline.
Certain beach breaks seem to be about the absence of discipline. To embrace the spirit of this may hold some potential for drawing more workable lines in unpredictable conditions.
But this gets me thinking of the woman balancing on the subways of New York City. The train must shift in an irregular fashion. And to file the variations of each line at the different traveling speeds of the train would be impossible to index in the mind. But when falling into to a rhythm recognition must kick in.
It might do well in the line up to clear the mind and let memory recognize for itself.
A reef break is a study of experience over time as articulated through a breaking wave. So as different swell directions run through one learns about its behaviour. Where it bowls, what are the lines that can be drawn and this becomes the discipline.
Certain beach breaks seem to be about the absence of discipline. To embrace the spirit of this may hold some potential for drawing more workable lines in unpredictable conditions.
But this gets me thinking of the woman balancing on the subways of New York City. The train must shift in an irregular fashion. And to file the variations of each line at the different traveling speeds of the train would be impossible to index in the mind. But when falling into to a rhythm recognition must kick in.
It might do well in the line up to clear the mind and let memory recognize for itself.
Tuesday, December 8, 2009
Wednesday, November 25, 2009
Cold Water and Watch the Ape Eat
Yesterday the reports had it looking like 3-4' and mushy so I left behind the shortboard I've been riding all summer and dragged the 7'8 funboard to the A train. Probably closing out but missed the taste of salt in my mouth.
Anyway, I show up, the s**t is peeling like a banana across the box. My heart leaps. I jump in the rip and paddle out, it's actually more like 5' faces and breaking across at the perfect speed. The first set I paddle into a late takeoff and totally pearl, eating it. OK, big guy, you lost the rocker with the bigger board, now put in another quarter and try again.
Take the next one at the proper angle and it's on...from the piling to the jetty. Can't remember the last time I had rides so long I was running back up the beach to put in again. It's like this for 2 solid hours until I can't paddle any more.
Why was it breaking so righteously when there were so many days filled with closeouts lately? Wonder if it had something to do with the little bit of east in the offshores. Anyone care to submit their pet theories?
Something about a cold water session gets me wanting cold water fish. Hit the Korean fish store on the way home and for the price of a deli sandwich I've got something way better.
Today ain't Hawaii and this ain't poke but know what? I'll take a double helping of today any day.
Anyway, I show up, the s**t is peeling like a banana across the box. My heart leaps. I jump in the rip and paddle out, it's actually more like 5' faces and breaking across at the perfect speed. The first set I paddle into a late takeoff and totally pearl, eating it. OK, big guy, you lost the rocker with the bigger board, now put in another quarter and try again.
Take the next one at the proper angle and it's on...from the piling to the jetty. Can't remember the last time I had rides so long I was running back up the beach to put in again. It's like this for 2 solid hours until I can't paddle any more.
Why was it breaking so righteously when there were so many days filled with closeouts lately? Wonder if it had something to do with the little bit of east in the offshores. Anyone care to submit their pet theories?
Something about a cold water session gets me wanting cold water fish. Hit the Korean fish store on the way home and for the price of a deli sandwich I've got something way better.Today ain't Hawaii and this ain't poke but know what? I'll take a double helping of today any day.
Sunday, November 15, 2009
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