Munching down, post session, 2004. The guy in the picture is Jason, an artist who not only took me under his wing and introduced me to the Rockaway scene, but let me ride his boards during a rather painful transition I was going through at the time.Behind him is the magical 8'2 single fin I learned on. His girlfriend created the design on the deck. It was like riding a painting.
I remember the first time I really took off on the shoulder of a clean peeler. It was one of the rare days when the water was fairly clear. I could see little bits of seaweed under the surface passing by under the board as it hummed along. A moment and a feeling I can still feel today.
If anyone reading this knows his whereabouts, please put me in touch because I have a special gift I'd like to give him.
It's a 7'10", not an 8'2". And most definitely not painted by my old girlfriend. : )
ReplyDelete