I would like to take this opportunity to disabuse myself of the myth of counter culture. I am an escapist, by nature and by vocation. Drugsalchoholmusicsexartcrimevandalism, all illusion in the sense that the act of transcendence requires a destination, a place to touch down. Without that it’s just getting high. Counter culture exists only in time not in space. It’s a fantasy for people who don’t really want to leave. For people who are not really serious about escape. It’s like forming a gang in prison as a form of empowerment. The real thing to do is just leave, if and when possible.
I want to leave and the place I want to go is surfing. Where is that? People spend lifetimes trying to riddle that one. So I have no answers but I do know it’s f-king hard to read in the dark. I don’t need surfing to be in the shadows, to be our secret. Just like any of the other afformentioned disciplines, music and art etc…The secret is in the mysterious yet obvious nature of truth.
Counter culture is for people who don’t want to take a real look for themselves. I’m not buyin’ it, stop sellin’ it.
