Tuesday, April 13, 2010

The Lime Treatment

You know, this is one of the few surf videos I've seen in a while that I would call cinematic. Also the first I've encountered that looks deep into the tremendous monster lip of Teahupo'o - from the inside. Would George Greenough have dared to go deeper?

Lime juice and the sea! from allan wilson on Vimeo.

Thursday, April 1, 2010

Too Much Rocker

It's been so long I'm starting to have dreams.

My dream last night opened with me lined up on a big wall, double overhead, breaking brilliantly and it looked like I was about to pull the biggest barrel of my life. But somehow I had to decide on the spot which board I was going to ride and decided on my 6'4 thruster with the rocker.

But instead of a board materializing under my feet, I received a banana. The rocker on the banana was a bit too much though, and I quickly had to ditch the fruit and ride on the soles of my feet. I was a little more stable but lost too much speed. I saw the wave starting to break and I had no choice but to dive for the bottom of the wave in hopes of escaping a savage beating. In slow motion, I drew closer and closer to the water's surface and there the dream ended.