Thursday, September 24, 2009


I just rented this DVD. Blackwater is Tim Bonython's Teahupoo documentary. I think it will be good to watch this winter to keep the surfing fires stoked. Check out the trailer.

Monday, September 21, 2009

Groveling – more than one way to skin a cat

Groveling is at its essence a term of derision. But at this moment in surfing a change in terminology would be most appropriate. Used to describe a kind of false intensity or imply a desperate quality of trying to rip a small wave into a higher score or experience depending on the context, the word is a security blanket for the uninspired.

Not that the phenomenon is not real. We see it all the time. But if a long boarder can make music out of a three or four foot peeler than so can a short boarder. In the final heat of the Hurley pro 09 Dane Reynolds v Mick Fanning, Dane could not put it together to challenge Mick's fire. However Dane's last ride was punctuated by a crisp skate like air off of what had to be a two maybe three foot end section. Though too little too late it showed an intensity for the whole wave not just the best or meatiest section that alludes to the idea that it is not just the surfer drawing from the wave but also answering back natures call with a creative echo from within.

I wouldn’t really call that groveling, would you?

water shots

the picture of the 3 photographers duck diving the wave is amazing.

Saturday, September 19, 2009

Fearlessness, and the absence of fear

Courage is a positive force. The absence of fear is a negative force. Fearlessness is a subcomponent of courage and therefore a positive. Because courage can not exist without fear.

To site a personal experience I had a long night out before a day that I really wanted to surf. So I ended up going straight to the beach being that if i went to sleep I would be sleeping for the day. I showed up at dawn to shoulder/overhead short interval stormy but rideable surf. With no fire in my belly I paddled out. Ducking my first wave I immediately perceived the absence of fear. Duck diving in shallow sand I frequently worrie about the wave splashing off the bottom and forcing the board out of my grip and into my face. But now I did not have the energy to care. And I pushed through the outside easily. Similarily on my first wave, too exhausted to think I took off and flew down the stormy overhead face backside like it was a glassy 3ft. roller and finished by just letting the wall knock me off the board without bothering to turn towards or away from the oncoming close. It was like fallling into a waterbed. I did not know or care where my board was in the foam and getting to the surface was not even a thought in my mind, things were just happening.

That was a very short session, for obvious reasons I could not sustain a long surf. Thinking about that session I can see that utilizing negative energy, a lack of or even denial of fear can open some doors. However I also notice that without courage, without positive energy one can flow but not actualize. In that state I could not have done anything but what I did. So without using exhaustion as a strategy I realize that positive force tempered with negative can generate energy and flow. To make this work sometimes one has to set aside logic and move on straight intuition but as I apply this emotional discipline to my surfing it seems to yield results.

shot with my casio wp last summer on long island.

Friday, September 18, 2009

keep it simple...

check out Sea Movies on Korduroy. "Subsistence Shredding" sums up what surfing is.

Wednesday, September 16, 2009

Surf Naked!

Thought I'd pass on a few stories from my trip to Assateague Island, MD a few weeks back. Brought two boards and a tent. Lucky me, I'd scored a week earlier with Mr. Bill...

(I'm behind the camera for this one)

...and here I am traveling down to MD to camp out amidst wild ponies whilst tropical storm Danny kindly spins up the Atlantic coast to greet me.

Next morning is head high+ surf and good conditions. After getting thrilled and worked in equal proportions, the next dawn brings waist high waves, sideshore winds, and a largely deserted beach. Still having an appetite for the water, Rebecca and I grab the boards and head down and here's this hippie guy and his girlfriend frolicking nude in the surf under the pelicans. They have a good vibe so we exchange hellos and they playfully ask us why we're so overdressed. Once I realize I don't have a good argument, I throw my board shorts on the beach, paddle out, and ride one in. If you haven't tried it, I recommend it...

Just avoid doing it when there's a sideshore current pulling you quickly toward the more populous end of the beach with families and little kids running around. I mean, theoretically you could have a minor problem. that's all I'm gonna say.

Tuesday, September 15, 2009

Bikini shots

I try to follow competitive surfing and watch the CT and QS events online when I can. Lately there has been some noise made about why contest surfing can not seem to break into the mainstream. The first thing that comes to my mind is those idiotic T and A shots of chicks on the beach. Even sports with cheerleaders don't do that and it insults me as a viewer. If I want that online I will indulge myself in the vast resource of internet porn that exists at my disposal. The industry itself does not seem to take the sport seriously so why should anyone else?

Saturday, September 12, 2009

George Greenough

da man!

Catch Surf

Even though these are soft boards they totally rock. I think the folks over at Catch Surf are on to something big. Using new materials and technology with time tested design sounds like a recipe for some awesome sessions. I'm really looking forward to getting the Y Quad designed by none other then Tom Morey. Enjoy the video below with Hans Hages on the Y Quad. Oh, on those small lazy days look to the Swizzle. Check out their website for more info, boards, pics and videos.

Catch Surf's Y Quad

Catch Surf's longboard the Swizzle

Friday, September 11, 2009

gotta love community

Wooden board day at Currumbin Alley:

Le Grand Bleu

I need to watch this movie again. I've probably watched it three or four times already. It was my first introduction to Luc Besson's work and it's the best movie Rosana Arquette has ever done which isn't praise for her, just her luck. Also the first time I saw the acting chops of Jean Reno and Jean-Marc Barr.

Thursday, September 10, 2009


I heart fins, on my feet and on boards. This fin system for dropknee looks pretty cool. Too bad I suck at it:

some dk minus the fins:

New York Surf Film Festival Sept. 25-27th

Get yours while it's here!

click here for schedule and tickets.

Lots of good stuff, where do I put my money down? I think I'm in the mood for some Bonnie Prince Billy and surf footage on the big screen. White Wash for an interesting rarely mentioned part of surf history and Inner Most Limits of Pure Fun for some good old fashioned take me back to the time before I was born nostalgia. haha.

Last Hope - Andrew Kidman from X-Treme Video on Vimeo.

Whitewash Trailer from Daniel Scott on Vimeo.

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