Tuesday, December 27, 2011

Freedom to Foam

This is a film by Cyrus Sutton that is only released in Japan. It's yours for a $50.00 donation to the Korduroy Kickstarter campaign. They are just under half way there!

Freedom To Foam Opening from on Vimeo.

Monday, December 19, 2011

Rincon Snapshots

Photo credits:
1, 5, 7, 8, 9, 10 Michael Baron Shaw
2, 3, 4, 6, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15 Freaky Born Wings

Friday, December 16, 2011

Korduroy Kickstarter

Hey Apes,

My man Reis at Korduroy TV sent out an request for some help.
They want to revamp the website to make it even more awesome. Their goal is $18,000.
A little extra pocket money will go a long way to help the daily stoke machine. For me Korduroy keeps my stoke fires pumping on the daily.

Click here to help.

Support your boys yo. Digital aloha!


Monday, December 5, 2011

The West is the Best!

No, actually I have massive love for Strong Island. But on a recent work trip to L.A., I made the most of my downtime and was amply rewarded. Ventura county. The right point breaks I've been missing all my life.

With good buddy Shaw, checking the local shops. You'd be grinning too. Read on.

Shaw getting lost in the well-stocked longboard section.

Look up and get history! No one but the owner rides these.

A nice thing about the left coast is used boards have nice prices. Campbell Bros Bonzer, good condition, 300 benjamins. Damn American Airlines board fees!

Waves seem to break slower on the West Coast making them super easy to get into, whereas in NY it seems to require more split second timing. I love both waves, but there is something friendly about the still punchy, but more predictable/slower developing breaks out West. You can sort of turn off your brain and just relax into things. And (with the possible exception of Malibu), fewer people dropping in makes it a more mellow experience. I'd like to see the Rockaway crowd moving more in this direction.

My unintentionally semi-Cubist Malibu panorama (click and drag on the screen to look around):

Friday, December 2, 2011

John Cherry Fin

I was in need of a seven inch fin that would loosen up the Egg. I did some research and determined that a seven inch Skip Frye would do the trick. The problem was you can't really buy a pre-made 7 inch Frye. This would have to be custom and if that's the case why stick with fiberglass. After more research I found John Cherry Wood Craft who makes custom wood fins. I was super stoked to find that John makes a marine plywood center box fin. After a couple of emails to John the job was on and here is the result. Stoke!

Function and aesthetics come together in this fin. The woodgrain and shape are beautiful while the flex characteristics make it super functional for the slight hull egg.

I'm itching to get in the water and try this combo out. I have a feeling this will blow my mind.

Below are two photos John email while in progress. I appreciated the communication I had with John while the fin was being made. When the fin was done he sent more photos with it installed in a board so I could see it in context. To keep up to date on John's work tune into his blog Cherry Surfboards Blog. 

Along with making custom fins John is a hell of a shaper. I particularly like his Simm-21 boards. Below is a pic from John's blog of his booth at Sacred Craft. The yellow and green boards are the Simm-21. The green one looks mighty fine, mighty fine indeed! 

This post first appeared on Boards & Boulders 

Saturday, November 26, 2011

Catch of the Day

I've been thinking about plastics and the ocean lately, and what we can do to help. I really like the above image from a Surfrider ad campaign to raise awareness about the problem.

Below is a simple video about how we can begin to change some of our habits. Please forward it to anyone you think could use it. It's kind of basic, but I think it's good for an introduction to shifting awareness and habits of our use of plastics.

Wednesday, November 16, 2011

Monday, November 14, 2011

Kookbox pop up in NYC

Over the weekend Kookbox participated in a pop up shop in downtown Manhattan. I stopped by to feel up the boards and see what else Kookbox offers. For starters the boards are super legit. The fish and quad pin are in collaboration with Jeff McCallum and are super sweet. Both seem like very useful boards for these parts. The space was small but the stoke was high. The Kookox website is under redesign but you can stay up to date with the latest on their Facebook page.

I picked up a Kookbox hoodie. They are fleeced lined made of heavy cotton and hand made in Canada. I'll write a review on this once the springs comes but so far it's keeping me quite warm. I also had my eye on there rubber tops that are made in Japan. Maybe for next summer. Kookbox is one of those companies that have style and quality all the while keeping it home grown and grass roots. I'm looking forward to seeing what comes next. 

Sunday, November 13, 2011

Which way, the green room?

OK, I admit it: I've gotten a little obsessed with barrels. My bodyboarder friends have all gotten their share. Somebody once compared it to losing your virginity. Maybe because everyone has been in that situation at one time in their life, but until you've popped your cherry you're not so interested in talking about it. Or maybe that's just a guy thing?

A week ago Friday was hollow with howling offshores and sets at least head high. My heart jumping, I grabbed my single fin pintail and ran to the water. Every wave, I was cranking a bottom turn, pulling in tight and trying to get inside. I got destroyed a lot in closeout barrels. But there were some good ones between the closeouts. Once I briefly saw the inside of a tube but it squeezed shut on me.

Later in the day my friends showed up. I was pretty tired and chilled, but they razzed me until I got back in the water. (That's one of the things friends are good for.) The swell dropped a foot or so in size, but lined up a little better. I stopped trying to pull in, and instead went for longer rides. A woman snapped my picture.

So I guess the ocean won't give it up to me yet, but damn I'm so in love with single fins.

Friday, November 11, 2011

Encyclopedia of Surfing online

Hey Apes, this looks like a great project that can use some help! Check the video and head over to Kisckstarter.

Wednesday, November 9, 2011

The Progress Project Surfboard Bag

The Progress Project eco-friendly, recycled billboard surfboard bag.


When it came time to purchase a board bag for the Egg, I looked in all the usual places online and really was not satisfied with my choices. While clicking around, my friend Vanessa in LA recommended Wave Tribe as a place to find products that are made with sustainability in mind. Sustainability is near and dear to my heart so I checked it out with a gusto. Through Wave Tribe I found board bags made out of used billboards by The Progress Project. After I placed my order with WT I receved an email from Noah at TPP to get the details of my board and asked about my color preferences. I sent along some paint chips then he sent back samples that came within the range. After looking into TPP a little bit more, I found more reasons to be stoked about what they are doing. They are a small family-owned business that believes in sustainability and giving back to the community. They actually sponsor students and give 5% off profits to non-profits and charities. As a way to keep their business model supportive of our economy, they only use materials made is the US and subcontract to US companies. Needless to say TPP has a great busness model... but what about the product?  

The build quality is on par with the best bags on the market, if not better. The billboard material is inherently weather-proof. The seams are all double-stitched and the pad for the shoulder strap matches the bag – really nice attention to detail. The bag is constructed with recycled PET zipper & binding nylon stitching, padded with 1/8" closed cell foam. It is UV-treated, tear- and mildew-resistant. When I first unpacked the bag and looked it over I had the sense that whoever made it really put a lot of thought into it. There are places where a small company can cut corners to keep profits up, but none were evident here. Just a solid product made with care. 


The zippers are all heavy duty, stainless steel YKK zip pulls. The opening is big enough to easily and comfortably slide the board in. There is a nice little tail pocket that keeps everything snug and in place. A little further into the bag is a fair-sized pocket with a velcro seal to hold smaller items like wax, side bites and sunscreen. There is a small tab at the nose to help move the bag around while traveling. The center fin slot is fully adjustable with zippers on both ends and a reinforced tab at the base.

The end result is a sturdy thoughtful and well-made bag that I look forward to using. The best part is the bag has a lifetime warranty. How is that for confidence? The process of working with Noah was a real pleasure. I received emails informing me where things were in the process and when I could expect the bag the arrive. It's the little personal things that make all the difference. They even signed and addressed the bag to me. Now I have a real attachemnt to the bag and the people who made it. I'm  a fan! And they don't just make board bags. They also make messenger bags, laptop bags and even iPad covers, which I have my eye on. Like them on Facebook and see what it's all about.

Friday, October 21, 2011

Aquatic Apes on Facebook

We have a Facebook group. Come join us for posts only seen on the page and share your stoke!
Aquatic Apes Facebook group.

That curling wave above was shot at Rockaway.