Monday, November 29, 2010

Enjoy Hand Planes

Made from recycled surfboards and neoprene, these are products that I can feel good about buying. I like the idea that keeping stuff out of landfills could bring so much joy.

Friday, November 19, 2010

Indo Report

In a stroke of good fortune, I got booked late October on a last minute shoot in Sumatra to shoot orangutans for a wildlife conservation project. The producer and I got on great, so much that after the shoot he offered me his place to stay in Bali while he was away. Needless to say, I didn't need to be asked twice!

I got in some surfing at Kuta and Canggu and took my HD camera down to the Bukit Peninsula to shoot when a bigger swell came in earlier this week. Here's a few teaser images until I get the video edited:

Dawn patrol at Keramas.


Uluwatu. A heavy place, especially with anything overhead.

Stay tuned!

Monday, September 6, 2010

Dear Earl, Thanks for the memories.

Friday 09-03-2010 somewhere on Rockaway beach NY. Hurricane Earl pays a welcome visit to surf starved New York surfers.

Thursday, August 5, 2010

Happy kid

If your mom is 2x Woman World Longboard Champion surfer Daize Shayne Goodwin, life is pretty good...

Sunday, July 25, 2010

#1 i miss u

you never get another first. this is the first board i shaped. wide, thick, 7 footer and full of joy. haha

Wednesday, June 23, 2010

Seal Cam

This video caught my eye. Sure it's amusing to watch life from a seal's point of view, but watch how this being navigates space. The notion of "upside down" gets exposed as a kind of conceptual prison of surface dwellers. Sweet liberation!

Thursday, May 27, 2010

Jack Johnson - You And Your Heart

Wonder how Jack lipsyncs this - waterproofed iPod & speakers, clipped to the deck? Not easy singing double speed (you'll notice the clip is slo mo), but paddling into a wave at the same time? The guy deserves an award!

Wednesday, May 19, 2010

Soft Boards, Hard Truths

I read this yesterday after receiving the July issues of Surfing Magazine in the mail. I think it's a wake up call that is much needed. I am totally jazzed for warmer weather, grabbing my soft board and blasting the Rockaway shore!

To read just click the image.

Tuesday, April 13, 2010

The Lime Treatment

You know, this is one of the few surf videos I've seen in a while that I would call cinematic. Also the first I've encountered that looks deep into the tremendous monster lip of Teahupo'o - from the inside. Would George Greenough have dared to go deeper?

Lime juice and the sea! from allan wilson on Vimeo.

Thursday, April 1, 2010

Too Much Rocker

It's been so long I'm starting to have dreams.

My dream last night opened with me lined up on a big wall, double overhead, breaking brilliantly and it looked like I was about to pull the biggest barrel of my life. But somehow I had to decide on the spot which board I was going to ride and decided on my 6'4 thruster with the rocker.

But instead of a board materializing under my feet, I received a banana. The rocker on the banana was a bit too much though, and I quickly had to ditch the fruit and ride on the soles of my feet. I was a little more stable but lost too much speed. I saw the wave starting to break and I had no choice but to dive for the bottom of the wave in hopes of escaping a savage beating. In slow motion, I drew closer and closer to the water's surface and there the dream ended.

Wednesday, March 17, 2010

Surfing is not counter culture

I would like to take this opportunity to disabuse myself of the myth of counter culture. I am an escapist, by nature and by vocation. Drugsalchoholmusicsexartcrimevandalism, all illusion in the sense that the act of transcendence requires a destination, a place to touch down. Without that it’s just getting high. Counter culture exists only in time not in space. It’s a fantasy for people who don’t really want to leave. For people who are not really serious about escape. It’s like forming a gang in prison as a form of empowerment. The real thing to do is just leave, if and when possible.

I want to leave and the place I want to go is surfing. Where is that? People spend lifetimes trying to riddle that one. So I have no answers but I do know it’s f-king hard to read in the dark. I don’t need surfing to be in the shadows, to be our secret. Just like any of the other afformentioned disciplines, music and art etc…The secret is in the mysterious yet obvious nature of truth.

Counter culture is for people who don’t want to take a real look for themselves. I’m not buyin’ it, stop sellin’ it.