Friday, July 29, 2011

Post apocalyptic surf movie?

Given the environmental and financial disasters of the last few years, could this be a concept whose time has come? Welcome to Year 0000.

To reference "the future", the filmmakers appear to have stepped back to a late 70's post-apocalyptic vision: the perennial underground classic "Mad Max/Road Warrior" films. Desert roads, Dodge Chargers, peroxide babes, perhaps half-attired in torn football gear?

All of which raises the question: is "the future" a place now fully dependent on visions located in the past? Is this because all our formerly expansive visions of the frontier have at last fully expired? Now that the Western paradise is fully paved, Kerouac has been frog-marched out of the Wal-Mart, and Nasa is staring down into its freshly-dug grave, have the outer limits permanently shrunk to the small glowing rectangle displaying our Facebook wall?

Might as well celebrate the future from the peak oil era, when the relics of the present projected into the future featured gas-guzzling rebel cars, feral kids, punk and graffiti, a time before we beat a hasty retreat to our own personal green zones, fucking and fighting cowardly, via remote control.

Thursday, July 28, 2011

Bing Dharma

Saw this gem at Saturdays the other day.  5'4 Bing Dharma.

Tuesday, July 26, 2011

Plastic pollution

I know this is not a surf related post but it is an ocean related post. Spread the word.

Wednesday, July 20, 2011

Surf Therapy for PTSD...

and everything else.

we knew this.  being active and engaged serves the soul. the water helps all apes to be whole again.

(i like the nod to Mihaly Csikszentmihalyi’s flow theory, if you haven't read the book pick it up. i read it in college and i am only recently getting better at incorporating flow into my life.)

Fineline arrived

The day finally arrived! My custom 6"8 Fineline Egg came in! Here are some pics.


This is not your average egg.

The front has a little hull to it.

No Egg is compleate without a Greenoough A4 fin.

Looks like Freaky Born Wings and I have some new boards to check out once some waves show up! I'm hoping for some good swell for the fall. I plan to write a lengthy review once I have a chance to ride it in different conditions.

P.S. Thanks to Brian Hilbers for shaping a terrific board and thanks to the Mollusk Brooklyn crew for helping me find my way to the right board.

Friday, July 8, 2011

SEVEN Pipeline Sequence 1979

The 60's smash cut editing, the Lightning Bolts threading through macking Pipeline, the ogling of sexy body parts... And then, waking and loading a revolver in bed. Yeah, me neither.

But look at them boards in action!!

Dude, Lightning Bolt?

As I finished prepping an old board for sale this week, a pretty rare opportunity presented itself.

I grew the quiver to a fair size this year, picking up interesting cheap used boards to experiment with. Now, as I'm looking to sell off a bunch to narrow the quiver to perhaps 4 boards, a semi gun was on the list. I'd envisioned more of a 7'2-7'4 pintail thruster, but suddenly what appears online?

A 7'1 single fin pintail semi gun. With a Lightning Bolt on the deck. At a good price. After a quick consult with the helpful, Bolt-obsessed Damion Fuller over at (thanks D!), I immediately began a campaign of begging the seller via email for first crack at this piece of history. I imagined he probably thought me a bit weird.

I showed up at his place and not only did it turn out we'd met briefly at my home break a couple weeks prior, he turned out to be quite a nice guy and very interesting - a German photographer named Marian living and working in NY.

After he helped me pack up the bolt in cardboard for the subway ride home, he was kind enough to take his quiver down off a high shelf, and here (pictured below) are three more Lightning Bolts! At right is a classic Vespa he and a friend dragged 5 stories up a narrow Chinatown staircase to his studio apt for restoration.

My new acquisition has a number of layers and unsightly (though watertight) repairs. The green bolt and pinlines are made of some kind of thin, very strong tape that's bonded tightly to the top. A thin layer of resin below the tape is an "Ed Angulo/Hawaii" decal. Who knows what the story is behind this board? But it's clearly been around for a while, and as I'm a rider not a curator, at 7'1 x 19.5 x 3, my new friend looks like it's begging for some big hurricane waves. And I hope that maybe, just maybe, on the right day, my feet will feel a soft whisper from 1975 Hawaii.

Friday, July 1, 2011

Wednesday, a day at Rockaway and en evening in the Lower East Side

Freaky Born Wings and I met up for an optimistic trip to Rockaway this past Wednesday. The report was calling for 2+3 feet with poor to fair conditions. That is a remarkable improvement over FLAT!

8:00 a.m. there are surfer in the water and every now and again something resembling a wave rolled through. Freaky Born and I were hopeful.

I wish I had pics from our session. Our optimism and patents payed off. Freaky Born got the wave of the morning. Dropping in early on a nice three footer and trimming out all the way in to the amazement of the surfers that just got out of the water. As I was watching Freaky Born trim out I caught a glimpse of the dropping jaws of our land bound friends. The ocean was being a bit of a prankster that day. Swells would start to jack up only to disappear into dribble. We did have a moment, it lasted about twenty minutes where things seemed to line up. The waves were slightly bigger and breaking a little nicer. I managed to get a couple of solid rides in on the Finline MP. Freaky Born was getting wave after wave on an old Plastic Fantastic longboard. I gave it a shot but anything over seven feet is hard for me at this point. I plan to work on that. Having a longboard is a must if you call the east coast home.

After our session I drove back to 90th while Freaky Born biked with his surf rack enabled beach bike. It's super rad!

The Plastic Fantastic!

That night we met up and went to the New York premeir of Sigh|Sound directed by Mikey DeTemple. I’ve been waiting for this film to come to a big screen in NYC for some time and glad I waited to watch it in a theater for the first time. It’s a stunning film with a great sounds track. There is no dialog, just surfing and music. It’s a surf film in the purest sense. The locations surfed include Central America, Maritime Provinces, New York, Bahamas, Baja Mexico and Main. Notice two common location are left out, that’s right no Hawaii or California. Mikey is a New Yorker and made a film that shows the quality and variety of waves to be had up this way while also scouting more tropical locations. Which is what us east coasters do when the surf is flat. I have watched a lot of surf films but this one stands out because it goes beyond the subject of surfing and into that which it is titled Sight|Sound. Even if your not a surfer this is a great film to experience.

Afterwards there was a Q&A with Mikey, he is on the right.