Monday, September 26, 2011

Moods of Rockaway, and 5 piggies



This morning I checked it at first light. A luminous fog enveloped everything. My buddy Mike and I paddled out after the sun rose and was poking through so dimly you could actually look directly at it, a defined white disc in a grey sky.

From the lineup you could not see the beach. The noise of the city seemed muffled. We were enveloped in a pale white world. Set waves appeared as slightly darker grey bands in the distance, then materialized into fat chest to shoulder high waves. It seemed like there were fewer people out, since you couldn't see much more than 100 feet. Everyone seemed stilled by the magic of the environment, and were on their best behavior (rare for this break).

I test rode a new aquisition - a used 8' Bunger I bought for my girl. It seemed stiff and unresponsive at first. But gradually I tamed it. And on one peaky peeler, I ran up and wrapped five piggies around the nose. Yea, it was my first time!

I looked down, waiting for something to happen; for the board to pearl, or become unstable and throw me. Nothing did. So I hung out there for maybe 4 or 5 long seconds. That felt really great.

Friday, September 23, 2011

Thursday, September 22, 2011

White Wash

Just found this. White Wash A must see for sure.

From the wedsite: "White Wash, the documentary, is a film exploring the complexity of race in America through the eyes of the ocean. Examining the history of “black consciousness” as it triumphs and evolves into the minds of black surfers, we learn the power of transcending race as a constructive phenomenon. The story is narrated by the legendary, Grammy Award winner Ben Harper (Fistful of Mercy, Relentless 7, Ben Harper and the Innocent Criminals) along with Tariq “Blackthought” Trotter of the Grammy Award winning hip hop group, The Roots whom also originally scored the film. "

Rusty Single Fins. The Single Life

I was flipping through the latest issue of Transworld and stumbled across a spread of Josh Kerr sitting among some short/wide single fined surf craft. I could not beleave my eyes. A single fin in the pages of Transworld? What gives? Well it turns out that Rusty has been exparimenting with the these little rockets for some time. Check out the footage below. I have never seen a single fin ridden this way. Say good by to everything you thought you new about mono fined craft. Kerr even states that under the right conditions he will take one out during a heat. I would love to see that and hear the commentators reaction.
I am stoked to see all of the experimentation going on in board design and fin use!

RUSTY Single Life | teaser from rustyintl on Vimeo.

THE SINGLE LIFE from rustyintl on Vimeo.

Wednesday, September 21, 2011

One Beach the film

One Beach is a great film about preserving the ocean and the beaches we love so much. I like that it's a positive film promoting positive solutions to plastics. Kevin Cunningham of Spirare Surfboards makes an appearance to talk about how he make sustainable surf craft and uses ocean debris to make fins. Take 20 mins and watch this film!

Monday, September 19, 2011

Come Hell or High Water - Premiere at NY Surf Film Festival

Ain't nothin' better than watching a surf film at a theater so you can hoot and holler in unison...


Keith Malloy admitted in the Q and A after the film that he and his crew had just finished the film 3 days ago and had still been out shooting two weeks earlier. That only made me appreciate this ode to bodysurfing that much more. Touching, humorous with jaw dropping drops, paired with great songs, it was a complete surf movie experience.

The underwater footage was mesmerizing, waves breaking with white bubbly fog engulfing grinning aqua men. My favorite shot was when several surfers were lined up underwater moving with the energy of the wave like a school of fish. It's an image I will store in the noggin' for sometime until age and seawater wipe it out.

As a group bodysurfers are literally the lowest in the surfing hiearchy but that actually makes them closest to the water and there is something to that. They're keeping it simple and they know that having fun is all that really matters.

See. This. Movie.

Wednesday, September 14, 2011