Tuesday, July 16, 2013


Shaper: Connor White.  6'2 x 19 x 2 3/8.
Sighted: Rockaway Beach, June 30, 2013.

Thursday, July 11, 2013

"A Hundred Miles to the End" Premiere this weekend!

On Saturday, July 13th at 7:00 PM, in Long Beach: the World Premiere of John Beattie's "A Hundred Miles to the End." Been waiting a long time for this, and John's been working hard at it these past few years.  Very excited to see the result!

Monday, July 1, 2013

Pumping Keramas

People that know me know I used to be a bit down on surfing contests.  I mean come on, they're hyper commercialized, they push a notion that surfing itself is inherently a competitive "sport", and they perpetuate a misguided notion that what the judges happen to currently score is what surfing is all about.  The worst evidence of this for me came last year when a young surfer tried to paddle around me for a large set wave, causing me to try and outmaneuver him and us both to miss the wave.  He seemed delighted and boasted to me that he had "pushed me out of position."  Thanks, ASP, for leading the young to believe blowing waves is the height of surfing achievement.

HOWEVER, the waves, the surfing, the quadcopter filming, the editing, and the music in this clip got me so pumped last week I felt like grabbing a board at 11pm to run out into the night to charge something that wasn't there.  Whether you're conflicted or not, enjoy.