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Showing posts with label Stoke. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Stoke. Show all posts

Friday, March 14, 2014

Stay Salty, in a good way


When you want to keep the digital stoke fired up and the waves aren't cooperating or you're chained to your desk monkey job, Liquid Salt can ease the pain. Kick him some scratch especially if you've taken a drink from the well. Glenn will thank you ;)

Sunday, November 3, 2013

Tandem Mat Riding



I rode a surf mat up into my 8th month, after which I stuck to swimming in calm water, day or night.  Little Kai Alana has arrived since I wrote this. Baby and Mama are doing great, and looking forward to the day when they can get into the waves again.  Here is what I wrote during my second trimester:
My mother told me that when she got pregnant, she noticed that she stopped running aground while sailing her boat.  Something in her had become more cautious, and she stopped putting herself in potentially sketchy situations until she noticed when we had grown up a bit that she had started running aground again.  While I wish I could be like Jericho Poppler and surf into my 8th month, I’ve definitely become more nervous around hard surfcraft and their captains since the start of this gestation project.  My solution?  The surf mat! 
Thanks to fellow ape Justin Valdes for introducing me to this glorious wave vehicle at last year’s Mat Meet, I knew this magic wave carpet was just what I needed to provide my passenger Little Monkey and me a soft and safe ride in the salty brine, away from the fray of the peak.  The little girl inside me is pure aquatic ape, surfing up an amniotic stoke in my belly, while I immerse myself in the ocean, so similar to the blood whose expanded volumes are cruising around in my pregnant veins.  
My wetsuit stretches over my belly, cradling Little Monkey snugly.  The water provides sweet relief from gravity, the increasing enemy of my expanded girth.  A trimester of inactivity leaves me winded, and the new body requires negotiation, but I no longer have to walk the beach pining for the waves that all the board riders are gliding.  Thanks to my sweet partner ape Brian, for getting me this best birthday present early so I can enjoy the whole season until this bun in the oven is cooked.

Wednesday, November 16, 2011

Shakas galore in San Onofre

A carbon neutral machine of perpetual righteous stoke. My fire escape must have one.

Shakas Galore from Freaky Born Wings on Vimeo.


Friday, October 21, 2011

Aquatic Apes on Facebook

We have a Facebook group. Come join us for posts only seen on the page and share your stoke!
Aquatic Apes Facebook group.


That curling wave above was shot at Rockaway.

Wednesday, July 20, 2011

Fineline arrived

The day finally arrived! My custom 6"8 Fineline Egg came in! Here are some pics.



2+1


This is not your average egg.


The front has a little hull to it.


No Egg is compleate without a Greenoough A4 fin.






Looks like Freaky Born Wings and I have some new boards to check out once some waves show up! I'm hoping for some good swell for the fall. I plan to write a lengthy review once I have a chance to ride it in different conditions.

P.S. Thanks to Brian Hilbers for shaping a terrific board and thanks to the Mollusk Brooklyn crew for helping me find my way to the right board.