When you want to keep the digital stoke fired up and the waves aren't cooperating or you're chained to your desk monkey job, Liquid Salt can ease the pain. Kick him some scratch especially if you've taken a drink from the well. Glenn will thank you ;)
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Showing posts with label Stoke. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Stoke. Show all posts
Friday, March 14, 2014
Sunday, November 3, 2013
Tandem Mat Riding
I rode a surf mat up into my 8th month, after
which I stuck to swimming in calm water, day or night. Little Kai Alana has arrived since I
wrote this. Baby and Mama are doing great, and looking forward to the day when
they can get into the waves again.
Here is what I wrote during my second trimester:
My mother told me that when she got pregnant, she noticed
that she stopped running aground while sailing her boat. Something in her had become more
cautious, and she stopped putting herself in potentially sketchy situations
until she noticed when we had grown up a bit that she had started running
aground again. While I wish I
could be like Jericho Poppler and surf into my 8th month, I’ve
definitely become more nervous around hard surfcraft and their captains since
the start of this gestation project.
My solution? The surf
mat!
Thanks to fellow ape Justin Valdes for introducing me to
this glorious wave vehicle at last year’s Mat Meet, I knew this magic wave
carpet was just what I needed to provide my passenger Little Monkey and me a
soft and safe ride in the salty brine, away from the fray of the peak. The little girl inside me is pure
aquatic ape, surfing up an amniotic stoke in my belly, while I immerse myself
in the ocean, so similar to the blood whose expanded volumes are cruising
around in my pregnant veins.
My wetsuit stretches over my belly, cradling Little Monkey
snugly. The water provides sweet
relief from gravity, the increasing enemy of my expanded girth. A trimester of inactivity leaves me
winded, and the new body requires negotiation, but I no longer have to walk the
beach pining for the waves that all the board riders are gliding. Thanks to my sweet partner ape Brian,
for getting me this best birthday present early so I can enjoy the whole season
until this bun in the oven is cooked.
Monday, July 9, 2012
Wednesday, November 16, 2011
Shakas galore in San Onofre
A carbon neutral machine of perpetual righteous stoke. My fire escape must have one.
Shakas Galore from Freaky Born Wings on Vimeo.
Labels:
humor,
San Onofre,
shakas,
Stoke
Posted by
Freaky Born Wings
Friday, October 21, 2011
Aquatic Apes on Facebook
We have a Facebook group. Come join us for posts only seen on the page and share your stoke!
Aquatic Apes Facebook group.
That curling wave above was shot at Rockaway.
Aquatic Apes Facebook group.
That curling wave above was shot at Rockaway.
Wednesday, July 20, 2011
Fineline arrived
The day finally arrived! My custom 6"8 Fineline Egg came in! Here are some pics.


2+1

This is not your average egg.

The front has a little hull to it.

No Egg is compleate without a Greenoough A4 fin.





Looks like Freaky Born Wings and I have some new boards to check out once some waves show up! I'm hoping for some good swell for the fall. I plan to write a lengthy review once I have a chance to ride it in different conditions.
P.S. Thanks to Brian Hilbers for shaping a terrific board and thanks to the Mollusk Brooklyn crew for helping me find my way to the right board.
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