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Showing posts with label bodysurfing. Show all posts
Showing posts with label bodysurfing. Show all posts

Thursday, October 3, 2013

All swell that ends whale

Thanks peeps for turning out! Paipopolis 2013 came and went. We lucked out with nice waves first thing in the morning and breaching humback whales at the end of the day. There was tons of gear to share with lots of paipos, bellyboards, handplanes, mats and a quiver of boards to try.It’s like having your very own massive collection of planing surfaces at the beach WITH a bunch of friends new and old around. Can there really be anything better when some nice little waves show up? And even when they don’t the paipos/bellyboards shall abide.

sharing is caring y’all...






















photo credits: Albert Weaver, Albert Shelton



Saturday, June 9, 2012

Mark Cunningham at Pilgrim

Mark Cunningham, body surfer and waterman extraordinaire, was the guest of honor at a jam packed screening of "Come Hell Or High Water" last night at Pilgrim Surf & Supply in Brooklyn. Cyrus Sutton (Korduroytv, "Stoked and Broke"), who contributed some footage to the movie, was also in the house along with an admiring crowd of New York surfers including Aquatic Apes Kris Chatterson and Albert Shelton. When the Teahupoo sequence came up, I asked Mark what that experience was like.

"Scary," was his response. "Your body can't move as fast as a surfboard, so you have to be very selective in what waves you take."

If Mark (who is in his mid-50's) was scared during filming, it sure isn't obvious in the movie, which shows ride after ride of this white haired superman tearing down the face and plowing through big, churning Tahitian barrels with nothing but a swimsuit and set of fins.

When he took the stage to thunderous applause, you could feel the aloha filling the room from this warm, unfailingly modest man. He talked about his personal fin collection now adorning the wall of Pilgrim (he likes Da Fins), why he prefers his hands to hand planes (he likes the feeling better, and hand planes can hit the wearer or throw a shoulder out), and why he doesn't ride a board ("I was a gangly teenager, and too uncoordinated for that!"), though he actually does own a few surfboards including a pair of quad fish (a 5'10 and 6'2).

Before wrapping up, this career Hawaiian lifeguard made sure to point out the hazards of bodysurfing. "There are plenty of people in wheelchairs or worse from bodysurfing heavy shore break," he warned. "Always try to keep your hands in front of you so you hurt an arm or shoulder instead of your head. And have fun out there, on whatever floats your boat."


Packed house at Pilgrim

Cunningham showing off his main piece of equipment.

Clearly, he has a thing or two to learn about being a spoiled movie star.

Wednesday, May 16, 2012

Body Whomp, Florida.

I recently took a trip to Florida to visit family. Whenever I'm down there I always go pay a visit to the place that started my love affair with the ocean. The conditions were really bad with lots onshore wind and a bad current. The waves had hardly any shoulder so a body whomp was the call for each day. The fun factor was way up!

Friday, October 7, 2011

A postcard from Wednesday

We hit the water with a gusto and for a brief moment it was good. The ocean had different plans and the swell dropped. Some people got out. Others, mostly newbies got in with hulking longboards. With time to spare Freaky Born and I grabbed the fins and hand plane and I took turns poaching a few from the falling longboarders. 


Monday, September 19, 2011

Come Hell or High Water - Premiere at NY Surf Film Festival

Ain't nothin' better than watching a surf film at a theater so you can hoot and holler in unison...


 

Keith Malloy admitted in the Q and A after the film that he and his crew had just finished the film 3 days ago and had still been out shooting two weeks earlier. That only made me appreciate this ode to bodysurfing that much more. Touching, humorous with jaw dropping drops, paired with great songs, it was a complete surf movie experience.

The underwater footage was mesmerizing, waves breaking with white bubbly fog engulfing grinning aqua men. My favorite shot was when several surfers were lined up underwater moving with the energy of the wave like a school of fish. It's an image I will store in the noggin' for sometime until age and seawater wipe it out.

As a group bodysurfers are literally the lowest in the surfing hiearchy but that actually makes them closest to the water and there is something to that. They're keeping it simple and they know that having fun is all that really matters.

See. This. Movie.



Wednesday, September 14, 2011

Saturday, March 19, 2011

Smuggler's Cove, Santa Cruz Island, CA

2007, Santa Cruz Island. I must be in a real nostalgic mood today. This watercolor just took shape in my sketchbook and I realized that it was the first day I really fell in love with bodysurfing. 



Wiley and Joel getting out, the swell done gone. We hiked over the hill from Scorpion Anchorage expecting just a hike but there were some nice waves greeting us, for a bit.

UCSB crew.

Friday, November 19, 2010

Indo Report

In a stroke of good fortune, I got booked late October on a last minute shoot in Sumatra to shoot orangutans for a wildlife conservation project. The producer and I got on great, so much that after the shoot he offered me his place to stay in Bali while he was away. Needless to say, I didn't need to be asked twice!

I got in some surfing at Kuta and Canggu and took my HD camera down to the Bukit Peninsula to shoot when a bigger swell came in earlier this week. Here's a few teaser images until I get the video edited:


Dawn patrol at Keramas.


Keramas.


Uluwatu. A heavy place, especially with anything overhead.

Stay tuned!