Cold Water and Watch the Ape Eat

Yesterday the reports had it looking like 3-4' and mushy so I left behind the shortboard I've been riding all summer and dragged the 7'8 funboard to the A train. Probably closing out but missed the taste of salt in my mouth.

Anyway, I show up, the s**t is peeling like a banana across the box. My heart leaps. I jump in the rip and paddle out, it's actually more like 5' faces and breaking across at the perfect speed. The first set I paddle into a late takeoff and totally pearl, eating it. OK, big guy, you lost the rocker with the bigger board, now put in another quarter and try again.

Take the next one at the proper angle and it's on...from the piling to the jetty. Can't remember the last time I had rides so long I was running back up the beach to put in again. It's like this for 2 solid hours until I can't paddle any more.

Why was it breaking so righteously when there were so many days filled with closeouts lately? Wonder if it had something to do with the little bit of east in the offshores. Anyone care to submit their pet theories?

Something about a cold water session gets me wanting cold water fish. Hit the Korean fish store on the way home and for the price of a deli sandwich I've got something way better.

Today ain't Hawaii and this ain't poke but know what? I'll take a double helping of today any day.