It's been so long I'm starting to have dreams.
My dream last night opened with me lined up on a big wall, double overhead, breaking brilliantly and it looked like I was about to pull the biggest barrel of my life. But somehow I had to decide on the spot which board I was going to ride and decided on my 6'4 thruster with the rocker.
But instead of a board materializing under my feet, I received a banana. The rocker on the banana was a bit too much though, and I quickly had to ditch the fruit and ride on the soles of my feet. I was a little more stable but lost too much speed. I saw the wave starting to break and I had no choice but to dive for the bottom of the wave in hopes of escaping a savage beating. In slow motion, I drew closer and closer to the water's surface and there the dream ended.
I have had dreams where Im surfing on the soles of my feet as well.
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