Sunday, November 13, 2011

Which way, the green room?

OK, I admit it: I've gotten a little obsessed with barrels. My bodyboarder friends have all gotten their share. Somebody once compared it to losing your virginity. Maybe because everyone has been in that situation at one time in their life, but until you've popped your cherry you're not so interested in talking about it. Or maybe that's just a guy thing?

A week ago Friday was hollow with howling offshores and sets at least head high. My heart jumping, I grabbed my single fin pintail and ran to the water. Every wave, I was cranking a bottom turn, pulling in tight and trying to get inside. I got destroyed a lot in closeout barrels. But there were some good ones between the closeouts. Once I briefly saw the inside of a tube but it squeezed shut on me.

Later in the day my friends showed up. I was pretty tired and chilled, but they razzed me until I got back in the water. (That's one of the things friends are good for.) The swell dropped a foot or so in size, but lined up a little better. I stopped trying to pull in, and instead went for longer rides. A woman snapped my picture.

So I guess the ocean won't give it up to me yet, but damn I'm so in love with single fins.


  1. Epic! Stoked that you found the green room. Now there is no going back!

  2. Ha ha, I had a dream a few nights ago where I went back to that spot and was surfing the same waves! I kept going for the tube but kept outracing the wave and couldn't figure out how to pull in.

    I woke up shouting "hand drag!!!"