Sunday, August 28, 2011

Irene, YES!

Friday night's Authentic Sh-t show was blasting the Scorpions' "Rock You Like a Hurricane".

Woke up at 5 on Saturday to get in early before the NYC-wide mass transit shutdown. At 7am things were foggy and mysterious. It was hard to get a read on it.

I was joined by Albert and his firewire quad. I busted out my 6'4 thruster cause it's narrow and fast and duckdives like a bandit.

Soon the fog lifted, and so did the size.

The waves were meaty, but the 13 second period made for an easier entry than the usual beachbreak. It was great accelerating down the face into the flats before bottom turning. Some of them turned into super fast walls that kept their energy all the way down the line. I love speed, so I was loooooving it.

Albert busting a cutback. He was showing off some fine moves, throwing spray off the back of the wave and just generally having loads of fun.

Lots of attempts at cover ups, but no actual barrels.

Fat faces meant plenty of room for expression.

Running for the subway before the 12 noon subway/bus/rail shutdown!

Then it was straight to 388 Atlantic Ave for some more painting, helping get Rebecca's acupuncture business, Brooklyn Open Acupuncture, ready for a Sept 1st opening. It's gonna be great. Surfers welcome!

Rebecca knows I've been dying to get my hands on this book, so she flashed me a big grin when the library turned out to be closed when she was supposed to return it.

She disappointed some who were hoping for a more apocalyptic experience, but Irene gave the wave stalkers among us the best waves of the summer. 2011 was forecasted to have a higher than usual number of named storms. Word is, they're upping the forecast again. Hopefully lots more to come!


  1. Woke up from a nap this afternoon and dreamed someone got me a lift to the shore w/2 hardcore dudes. Next thing I know we're pulling up at some secret mysto Brooklyn shipyard pointbreak and thru the windshield, an epic 10' barrel was breaking! There was one guy on it but apparently no one else out. 1 problem: I didn't have my board. Woke up in a panic & started to dial a buddy on the phone for a ride before I was fully awake and realized what I was doing.

  2. Epic day and epic dream. Thanks for sharing! The Wave is a great book. I finally finished it not long ago. I have a renewed respect for the ocean. Let's get some waves from one of these storms coming our way soon!