Monday, September 26, 2011

Moods of Rockaway, and 5 piggies



This morning I checked it at first light. A luminous fog enveloped everything. My buddy Mike and I paddled out after the sun rose and was poking through so dimly you could actually look directly at it, a defined white disc in a grey sky.

From the lineup you could not see the beach. The noise of the city seemed muffled. We were enveloped in a pale white world. Set waves appeared as slightly darker grey bands in the distance, then materialized into fat chest to shoulder high waves. It seemed like there were fewer people out, since you couldn't see much more than 100 feet. Everyone seemed stilled by the magic of the environment, and were on their best behavior (rare for this break).

I test rode a new aquisition - a used 8' Bunger I bought for my girl. It seemed stiff and unresponsive at first. But gradually I tamed it. And on one peaky peeler, I ran up and wrapped five piggies around the nose. Yea, it was my first time!

I looked down, waiting for something to happen; for the board to pearl, or become unstable and throw me. Nothing did. So I hung out there for maybe 4 or 5 long seconds. That felt really great.

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