The magical locations, the beyond-epic waves, the leashless single fin boards, the dancing transition-era style of riders like Lopez, Young, Peterson, the spiritual consciousness that creeps out from between the frames and embedded in the soulful original songs and yearning captured in brilliant guitar playing.
That alone would make the film a classic. However, filmmaker Albee Fazon even transcends this, by framing his work as a kind of love poem to the Earth that also manages to ask important questions about life and human values.
Playing this weekend in a restored print and some of the original musicians on hand to perform the songs live.
Thanks to Damion Fuller at Board Collector for the tip, and to Justin for turning me on to the film. Feeling the pain to be here in NYC.
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